＊ニュージーランドの岩場

＊PAYNES FORD（ペインズフォード）

SUMMARY

Paynes Fordは南島の北西の端っこに位置する、ニュージーランド有数のスポーツクライミングエリアです。川にそって石灰岩の壁が点在しています。岩自体は森の中にある感じです。傾斜はさまざまありますが、基本的には垂直前後です。

作者は年末年始の休みの時期に訪れましたが、New Zealand各地（大部分のNZクライマーがこの時期はここに集まるらしい）や、外国からもたくさんのクライマーが集まっていて、キャンプ場は大混雑でした。クライミングだけでなく、ホリデーをみんなで満喫している感じで、全体の雰囲気がとても楽しかったです。他の時期にどのくらいのクライマーがいるのかはなぞです。

ガイドブック「GOLDEN BAY CLIMBS」より。

Welcome to paradise! For those who haven't been here before we had better warn you now that this is very dangerous place; a place where times stands still and hippies abound, nude swimming is still accepted and people don't take life too seriously. There are plenty of examples where people have arrived at Hangdog for two weeks and left two months later. Why, you may ask? Better ask that again after you have been here two weeks and try to leave. There are over 340 climbs at your aching fingertips...

Paynes Ford caters for most needs - from the hard rock junkie to mellow hang-out types. It's got easy access, there are a variety of grades and types of climbing, good swimming holes and above water bouldering for when it gets hot plus all the other activities and distractions that Golden Bay has: coffee, sun, sea, surf, mountain biking, tramping, kayaking and of course some of New Zealand's best caving on Takaka Hill - or try Irvines Cave, it's up the back... somewhere. Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Café and the cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainment.

The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it's even good in even winter (when the friction is better).

Paynes is New Zealand's answer to Australia's Mt Arapiles. Not in the size, quality or quantity of climbing but because, like Arapiles, it's a really great place to hang out, climb and have fun. It has way more recreational activities than Wharepapa, is more accessible than the Bay, and quite different climbing to Wanaka. The fact that once you are here you can stay and climb quite easily without having a car says it all. It has become very popular with overseas visitors, despite the area not having a lot of really hard climbs, and has become an integral part of a New Zealand climbing roadtrip. It might not be world class, but is is one of New Zealand climbing's gems.

ACCESS

Golden Bayはニュージーランドの南島の、左上端っこです。エイベルタスマン国立公園というやつのすぐ近くです。Paynes Fordの岩場は、NelsonからMotuekaを過ぎ、さらにひとつ峠を越え、Takakaの街の4km南に位置しています（MAP）。Motuekaからは50分ほどです。

ACCOMMODATION

Hangdog Campというすばらしいキャンプ場がすぐ近くにあります。岩場からは50mです。テント泊は一泊$4。水、水洗トイレ、温水シャワー、冷蔵庫、コンセント等が使えます。シャワーは一回につき$1です。1泊につき$10で快適なバンクハウスにも泊まれます。Takakaの街までは4kmほどなのでその気になれば歩きも可能です。またキャンプ場で無料で自転車を貸してくれました。